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The island of Rhodes is situated at the crossroads of two major
sea routes of the Mediterranean between the Aegean Sea and the
coast of the Middle East, as well as Cyprus and Egypt. The meeting
point of three continents, it has known many civilizations.
Throughout its long history the different people who settled
on Rhodes left their mark in all htmlects of the island's culture:
art, language, architecture. Its strategic position brought
to the island great wealth and made the city of Rhodes one
of the leading cities of the ancient Greek world.
Rhodes is the largest island in the Dodecanese. Its capital
city, located at its northern tip, is the capital of the Prefecture
with the Medieval Town in its centre. In 1988 the Medieval
Town was designated as a World Heritage City. The Medieval
Town of Rhodes is the result of different architectures belonging
to various historic eras, predominantly those of the Knights
of St. John
CLASSICAL PERIOD
The island was inhabited as early as the late Neolithic period
(4000 B.C.). In 408 B.C. the three major kingdoms of the island
- Ialyssos, Kamiros and Lindos - founded the city of Rhodes.
The three centuries that followed were the golden age of Rhodes.
Sea trade, skilled shipbuilders,and the careful and open-minded
political and diplomatic manoeuvres of the city kept it strong
and prosperous until Roman times.
In the same period, Rhodes produced excellent artistic work.
The most celebrated of all was the Colossus, one of the Seven
Wonders of the Ancient World, made between 304 and 293 B.C.
by the Lyndian sculptor Hares. The construction of the Colossus
took 12 years and was finished in 282 BC. For years, the statue,
representing their sun god Helios, stood at the harbour entrance,
until a strong earthquake hit Rhodes about 226 BC. The city
was badly damaged, and the Colossus was demolished.
The urban plan of ancient Rhodes reflects directly the urban
and philosophical ideas of the famous ancient Greek planner,
Hippodamus. The street plan of the ancient city is known due
to decades of archaeological excavations. The building blocks
(insulae) measure 47.70X26.50 m and all have the same dimensions.
They included 3 houses each and were surrounded by streets
5-6 meters wide. Greater units constituted areas surrounded
by wider streets (8-11 meters). Every area included 36 insulae
or 108 houses. The ancient city had an extended and well-constructed
sewage system as well as a water supply network
ROMAN PERIOD
The independence of the city came to an end in 164 B.C. when
Rhodes became a Province of the Roman Empire. But even as late
as the 1st century A.D. Rhodes preserved much of its splendour
and developed into one of the greatest centres of learning,
science and the arts.
Apart from the surviving written sources, the archaeological
research which continues to this day gives us a clear idea
of the level of civilization during this period.
CHRISTIAN PERIOD
During the early Christian period (330-650 A.D.) Rhodes belonged
to the eastern part of the Christianised Roman Empire, which
is known in history as the Byzantine Empire.
Though less significant and prosperous than before, the city
was the See of a Bishop and had a great number of churches,
among them some basilicas of impressive dimensions. It was
also an important military base.
The Arabs, who appeared or the first time in the Mediterranean
in the 7th century, attacked Rhodes and occupied it for s?me
decades. The city shrank during the following centuries and
was fortified with new walls. At the same time it was divided
into two zones, one reserved for the political and military
leadership and the other where the laymen lived, a division that reflects the social
reality of medieval times. Due to lack of written sources we
have little information concerning this period. The restoration
work of the Italians neglected or even harmed surviving buildings
in favour of the Knights’ period.
KNIGHTS’ PERIOD
During the Knights’ era the fortifications were extended, modernized
and continuously reinforced. ? hospital, a palace and several
churches were among the many public buildings constructed at
that time, offering interesting examples of Gothic and Renaissance
architecture. ?n spite of the hostilities with the Ottoman Empire,
sea trade was a source of wealth and the markets of the city
were thriving.Under the Knights, the island had a period of
prosperity and the relations between them and the local population
was characterized by tolerance and often by close collaboration.
Most of the streets of the Medieval Town coincided with those
of the ancient city.
The division of the town into two parts was retained. in Rhodes
the Order kept a well-organized archive that included documents
issued by its leadership, correspondence, notary acts, etc.
The archive has survived and is found today in the National
Library of Malta. It constitutes a valuable source of information
for the period.
The city was divided into its two parts by an inner wall.
The Northern part, known as Chastel, Chateau, Castrum, Castellum
or Conventus, was the site of the Grand Master’s Palace, the
church of the Knights, the Latin Cathedral, the Catholic Bishop’s
residence, the various "tongues" quarters, the Knights houses,
a hospital etc. The South part, known as ville, burgus or
burgum was the area where the laymen lived and included the
market, synagogues, churches and public and commercial buildings.
OTTOMAN PERIOD
In 1522 the Ottoman Turks conquered the city after a second
long siege. New buildings were constructed: mosques, public
baths and mansions for the new patrons. The Greeks were forced
to abandon the fortified city and move to new suburbs outside
its walls.
In the Ottoman era Rhodes lost its international character.
The city maintained its main economic function as a market
for the agricultural products of the interior of the island
and the surrounding small islands.
After the establishment of their sovereignty on the island,
the Ottoman Turks repaired the damaged fortifications, converted
most of the churches into mosques and transformed the major
houses into private mansions or public buildings. This transformation
was a long-term process that aimed to adapt the buildings
to the Ottoman way of living. The Knights’ period facades
with their sculptured decorations, the arched gates and hewn
stone walls were enriched with the random character of the
Ottoman architecture adapted to the local climate and culture.
In this process most of the architectural features of the existing
buildings were preserved. The most characteristic additions
were the baths (usually in the back of the buildings) and
the enclosed wooden balconies ?n the facades over the narrow
streets.In this this way most of the buildings of the Hospitaliers'
period in the Medieval Town were well preserved. The result
was a mixture of oriental architecture with imposing western
architectural remains and more recent buildings, which were
characteristic of the local architecture of the time.
In the l9th century the decline of the Ottoman Empire resulted
in the general neglect of the town and its buildings, which
further deteriorated due to the strong earthquakes that often
plague the area.
ITALIAN PERIOD
Italian troops took over the island and the rest of the Dodecanese
in 1912 and in 1923 Italy established a colony Isole Italiane
del Egeo.
The Italians demolished the houses that had been built on
and beside the walls during the Ottoman era and turned the
Jewish and Ottoman cemeteries into a "green zone" surrounding
the Medieval Town. They preserved the remains of the Knights’
period and removed all the Ottoman additions and also reconstructed
the Grand Master’s Palace. In addition, they established an
Institute for the study of the History and Culture of the
region.
The Italians undertook extensive infrastructure works (roads,
electricity, port, etc.) and radically transformed the town
of Rhodes, which was supplied with a new urban plan, building
regulations and many new public and private buildings.
RECENT PERIOD
The English bombs that fell on the medieval city of Rhodes in
1944 claimed human lives and destroyed a great number of buildings,
leaving large gaps in the urban tissue. One of the first Decrees
of the Greek administration designated those areas as reserved
for future excavations and a number of edifices as safeguarded
buildings.
In 1957, a new city plan was approved by a Decree and in
1960 the entire medieval town was designated as a protected
monument by the Ministry of Culture. In 1961 and 1963 new
Decrees were issued concerning the new city plan. They provided
for the widening of existing streets and the opening of new
ones. These were not implemented in the old city due to the
resistance of the Archaeological Service. In 1988, the old
town of Rhodes was designated as a World Heritage City by
UNESCO.
The Ministry of Culture, through the local Archaeological
Service, is the agency responsible by law for archaeological
excavations and the preservation of historic buildings and
works of art.
One of the first tasks of the Archaeological Service was
to reconstruct and consolidate the extensively damaged fortifications
and the building which houses the Archaeological Museum. Upon
excavation, the north-east corner of the medieval city, which
was bombed during the war, revealed the fortification of the
Hellenistic city in front of the ancient great port (today’s
commercial port). The scarcity of construction of new buildings
in the medieval city at that time gave the Archaeological
Service very few opportunities for excavations. On the other
hand, the building boom of the 1970’s and 1980’s in areas
outside the fortified city kept the archaeologists busy.
Later excavations in a private plot brought to light two historic
phases of the wall of the Hellenistic city, one before and one
after the siege of Demetrios Poliorkitis (the Besieger) (305-304
B.C.).
The base of the clock tower and the square tower of the Hospitalier
walls further to the east were some of the few known surviving
buildings of the Byzantine era. In excavations after 1980, two
major early Christian basilicas in the medieval city were revealed.
The east and a portion of the south Byzantine wall were also
discovered.The positions of the wall and towers of the Collachio
wall were identified.
In historic cities like Rhodes where contemporary life continues,
architectural conservation becomes a more complicated task.
In an attempt to cope with the complex new problems of the medieval
city, the Ministry of Culture, the Municipality of Rhodes and
the Archaeological Receipts Fund drew up a contract (1984) which
resulted in the establishment, in 1985, of the Office for the
Conservation and Restoration of the Medieval Town of Rhodes.
The basic contract concerning the medieval town aims at the
enhancement of its historic and cultural character, the improvement
of living standards and the development of productive activities.
The objective of the contract is to produce city planning projects
as well as restoration studies, and also to carry out restoration
projects and archaeological excavations.
In collaboration with the Ministry of Planning and with the
agreement of the Archaeological Service, the Office produced
a new Decree for the old town. In it the old town is designated
as a town protected by the Ministry of Planning. It proposes
a land use plan separating the commercial centre from the
residential area, incorporates the regulations already mentioned
above, defines minimum distances between shops of the same
trade and provides building regulations for the few plots
which have not yet been built on. In an attempt to bring in
close collaboration the Ministries of Culture and Planning,
the Decree provides that the Ministry of Culture, through
its local Archaeological Service, is responsible for its application.
The Decree was submitted to the Ministry of Planning for approval.
Parallel to the above, the Office for the Conservation of
the Medieval City has executed various conservation projects,
which have been completed or are in progress. Among them are:
Restoration of twenty-four residential buildings that are
occupied by poor families paying low rents. The buildings
belong to various historic periods so they present a mixture
of building styles one next to the other.
Restoration of St. Catherine’s Hospice, a 15th century building,
which was restored to its original form. A bedroom of the
period is represented in all its details. It is used as an
exhibition and seminar centre.
Construction of the Municipal Clinic. A residential building
that had been destroyed in the air raids was reconstructed
and today houses the municipal clinic of the medieval city.
The reconstruction was based on pre-war photographs.
Restoration of the House of the Orthodox Bishop, known as
the Admiralty Building. A 15th Century Hospitalier mansion
with renaissance influences is now under restoration and consolidation
and will house the Public Archives of the Dodecanese Islands.
Restoration and maintenance of the Municipal baths. Built
by the Ottomans in 1581 and known as Yeni Hamam (New Baths),
they served the residents of the medieval city for more than
four centuries. They are under restoration and maintenance.
During the works two previous layers have been revealed and
they will remain visible in some of the walls.
Construction of the city infrastructure. New water, sewerage,
telephone, fire protection and cable TV networks are included
in this project. The streets are being re-paved with traditional
natural materials. At the same time, open spaces are being
designed to combine public parks, squares and parking areas.
Illumination of the city walls. The fortifications have been
illuminated at night in an effort to discretely silhouette
their most characteristic features. The ramparts, the gates,
the towers and sculptural decorations have been accentuated
through proper illumination.
The street lighting has been redesigned to achieve proper
lighting of the streets . The old streetlights have been preserved
and maintained and new ones have been installed. The project
will continue in order to cover all the streets of the medieval
city while special lighting will be designed for each of the
squares.
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